Marc Jacobs is no stranger to clever collaborations. In fact, much of what has injected the brand into the heat of pop culture has been its timely and well-executed inner (and outer) workings with up-and-coming or ‘already made it’ famous faces and designers.
However, what separates Marc Jacobs from any other brand doing collaborations (after all, in the age of influencers, every brand regardless of size knows that community upkeep and team-ups are pivotal to relevancy) is this:
Marc Jacobs has always strategically played on enhancing an influential person’s energy; reimagining it in a way that makes sense and selling concepts to us in a streamline that doesn’t feel forced.
Instead of turning famous humans into models (like the Balenciaga Runway show in July that was slightly confusing, a good collaboration is about an intersection. It’s such a seamless business model that Jacobs actually teaches a Masterclass which includes collaboration concepts.
Fashion and pop culture lovers adore nothing more than an intersection that flows. One that makes us think the ‘face’ of the collaboration would have designed everything in the collection themselves if they could.
Love or hate them, many of the Kardashians clan are masters at brand building. Their secret? Building on what they’re already identified with. Think of Skims for example. Kim Kardashian’s body is famous. In fact, even if you couldn’t see her face, she’d be identifiable from her body alone (recall her silhouette Balenciaga look at the MET last year that epitomised this theory).
Skims capitalised on the feminity of the body, and it’s raking in millions for that reason. Balenciaga’s profits soared last year making it the ‘hottest’ brand of 2021 — and Kim’s ‘museship’ was another factor in this.
But, then there are those who get brand-building and collaborations terribly wrong. Think Penelope Cruz’s collab with Nintendo DS, or Bob Dylan for Victoria Secret. These collaborations, despite their influence, flopped in the world of team-ups. Why? Because when you think of Victoria Secret, it’s not likely that ‘Positively Fourth Street’ is playing in the back of your head. When you think of a Nintendo DS, you’re definitely not thinking of Penelope Cruz tackling the Super Mario Universe.
There are hits and misses in the world of capitalising on fame, but if anyone’s got the formula right, it’s Marc Jacobs, and the latest collection ‘Heaven’ has understood the assignment once again.
Marc Jacobs and Ava Nirui came together to give fashion lovers two things that have been hustling for the spotlight: 90s and Y2 K-inspired pieces, and individuals that work in both the clothes and editorial shoots.
Pamela Anderson, Charli XCX, Doja Cat, Dev Hynes, and Kyle MacLachlan all have their place in the campaign and the best part? None of them look out of place.
‘Heaven’ has, since 2020 not only kept audiences and consumers interested because of the fashion (this season it’s all about pleated skirts, platform boots and satin dresses) but for the thrill of who will be imagined in what.
Edgy and playful, the AW22 collection drew on collaborations with artists Eri Wakiyama, Claire Barrow, Will Sheldon and Elliot Shields – all of whom have their own niche followings in a perfect mixed back of an ode to the eras.
Beyond the high-profile people and artists, the collection drew on another community — New York City locals.
An ode to light and dark, ethereal and sexy, paradoxes are rife in this collection, making it that perfect meeting point between our vices and virtues.
ALSO SEE:
As if! Makeup Revolution’s new ‘Clueless’ collection is THE nod to 90s beauty
Feature Image: Harley Weir